Since then a number of versions have been added and prices have evolved upwards a notch, but the basic Buddy design remains intact as of 2019.Ģ007 saw Genuine add the higher end Buddy ‘International’ with its Euro inspired two color paint schemes. That first year the Buddy could be had in 50cc ($1900) and 125cc ($2500) calibers. The first Buddy’s arrived in the USA in time for the 2006 model year. PGO also sells this model through various other distributors worldwide, where it receives other names like the Metro (Canada), Bubu (Taiwan) and Ligero (UK and elsewhere). The Buddy is based on PGO’s PA model which comes in a variety of engine displacements with commensurate model codes (ie. PGO is one of the four main Taiwanese makers (along with Kymco, SYM and TGB) who have been rapidly refining their scooters and competing globally with the Italian and Japanese brands. The Buddy scooter is manufactured for Genuine via a collaboration with PGO Scooters of Taiwan (not to be confused with the Chinese manufacturers). Comparable scooters from the Italian and Japanese brands are usually a few hundred more, and cheaper scooters from the Chinese makers don’t offer the same reliability, performance, quality, resale value and manufacturer support. All the Buddy scooters are peppy, reliable and quite affordable. The Buddy became highly popular because it delivers a strong all around package at a very fair price by a small company that cares about its scooters. A fully charged FLA scooter battery should be around 12.6V.Genuine’s Buddy line is one of the biggest scooter success stories of the past decade. When cranking the starter, the voltage should not fall much below 11V. If it's much lower than that, then the stator and/or voltage regulator is bad, or possibly the idle speed is set too low. If it's much higher than that, the voltage regulator is bad. The charging voltage should be about 13.5 to 14.4V. If you've fully charged the battery and none of the gauges or lights do anything when you turn on the key, then the problem could be a blown fuse or other things, like a short circuit, open circuit, bad battery cables, or loose battery connections.Ī multimeter can be helpful to trace electrical problems and to see if the charging voltage is correct when the engine is running. If your gauges and lights briefly light up when you turn the key on, then the problem is definitely not a blown fuse, it's a discharged battery. You can't just check the voltage because a bad battery can show a good voltage but not sustain that voltage under a heavy load. You can't tell the condition of the battery until you properly charge it and test it under a heavy load that's similar to what your starter motor requires. So even if your battery "was" new, it could still be fully discharged, and depending on the time that it was left discharged (without you knowing it was), the battery can be junk now and not able to hold a charge. Your scooter seems to be running fine, but at some point when you stop and turn off the engine, the gauges and everything try to work and then quickly die as the voltage of the battery drops. How do you know when this happens? Well, in exactly the situation you describe. If the scooters charging system or voltage regulator start to fail and don't charge your battery enough, your battery could be draining every time you use it and become fully discharged. This can happen with no obvious indication in advance because scooters don't show the voltage, charge state, or charging/discharging current/amps. Normal cheap flooded lead-acid (FLA) scooter batteries are very sensitive and easy to kill by leaving them heavily discharged for even small periods of time, like just overnight or for a day or two. There are some common problems that will quickly and permanently kill a new scooter battery.
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